"It offers a grand show, exuberantly plentiful as always. If this is a movie, she will be the best picture."

Everytime I pay a visit to this destination where a certain FPJ (Fernando Poe Jr.) movie was filmed, the dropping water has always been limited not until the fourth time when this natural wonder bragged of a naturally stylish packaging that made me brush my elbows with bitter herbs, shake my head, raise my shoulders and say "wow."

Pinsal Falls. Grandiose.

The way to this has also changed a lot since my last visit. The thick shrubbery has turned into a pavement enabling every beauty queen to walk without losing poise.

Considered to be the largest and grandest falls in , Pinsal Falls has gained high level of popularity in this part of Ilocandia. I would say Pinsal Falls is naturally nifty. If this is a fashion show, this waterfall will surely stand-out. Ceaseless drops of water pour down to two natural catch basins. It is a twin waterfalls actually. This natural wonder is like a fancy white curtain that spreads immensely - horizontally and vertically. Above this waterfall are numerous natural pools that will surely invite everyone to plunge and get wet.

It offers a grand show, exuberantly plentiful as always. If this is a movie, she will be the best picture. It is now very accessible. Thanks to the LGU for the great idea. Her wow-factor is profuse. You can't contain it. During summer, the dropping water is reduced but there's no need to worry, it will be everyone's chance to explore the numerous deep natural pools above this waterfall without worrying of getting drifted by the plentiful spring rushing down the gorge during rainy days. It's beauty comes in different packages, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

Natural pool above the falls

Side view

You can swim above the falls

Upper cascades

Her sister

Twin sisters

Notice the minute people

View from the parking area

Motorbikes parked, including mine.

Pinsal Falls is 30 minutes from the . You can just hire tricycles from there. Negotiate for the fare first if you don't want to be overcharged at the end. Or, if you have a motorbike or a car, just drive. The best access road going to Pinsal Falls is the road immediately after the Bridge.

HOW TO GO TO PINSAL FALLS

1. Coming from Manila, ride on any bus bound for Vigan or Laoag.

2. Drop at Sta. Maria, Ilocos Sur (Drop-off locations: SM Savemore Market or Sta. Maria Church)

3. From the drop-off point, hire a tricycle and just tell you're going to Pinsal Falls.

Santa Maria is 7 hours from Manila and 45 minutes to 1 hour from Vigan. Pinsal Falls is 30 minutes away from the drop-off points I mentioned above.

*PINSAL FALLS SUB-SERIES: | | | 4

Sta. Maria #TownExploration Series

Map showing the Location of #Santa Maria

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Daniel, an 81-year-old Canadian Solo Backpacker

Until one day... I never thought I would ever meet a strong old man in person who loves backpacking with no complaints of nape pain and joint aches. Having been able to meet him is not just about dipping the sole to the pond of inspirations in keeping the vagabonding spirit alive. That encounter changed my perspective in life not just about traveling but also in shooting my targeted aspirations.

Daniel is his name. Beautiful name! I suddenly remember a Bible character named Daniel who kept his faith. He was a disciplined man, healthy in all aspects: physically, emotionally, spiritually and mentally.

Daniel is a Canadian solo backpacker. He has chosen to live this way. I met him in #BONTOC during a cultural celebration in town. I saw him seated in a corner with his video camera perched on a tripod. I approached him, we watched the cultural show and a conversation arising from two different generations filled the age gap. I have been hooked into his stories and our common interest has just cloistered us away from the crowd.

I asked him what is his secret of living a youthful life in his age. He told me he has successfully avoided cigar and alcohol in his younger years. I learned that in 1986, he has been in the same place. But that time was totally different. He told me that getting to Bontoc was a painful 12 hours of riding in a bus along a lonely dusty, mischievous and dreadful road from #BAGUIO to Bontoc. He then claimed that he was surprised with the massive change in development in this part of #CORDILLERA.

This moment made me arrive to the realization that the passion of traveling is age-independent and the possibility of traveling solo around the world in old age is not a theory. Daniel has just set an axiomatically perfect example.

Igorot old men: not the solo backpacker breed though

As we watch the great ol' men of Bontoc dancing to the tune of their traditions, I realized that life is too short and Daniel is not wasting a single second of his time. He still invests in earning experiences and banking happy memories in that old age.

While [some member of] the younger generation spend their youthful years to partying (I am referring to the sinful way), engaging in vices and unhealthy lifestyle, Daniel has just clearly chosen his priority. He maintained a good health because he still want to do his passion even when he gets old.

Another old man, he is not a Canadian though

Igorot old men circle, not sure if I will wear that when I get old though

For Daniel, he knows where he is going even when he was young. He knows his direction. He has been guided by a distinct passion in life. And uhmm, he told me his 85-year-old sister also do backpacking.

To Daniel, I don't know when we'll meet again, or I don't know if the second chance of meeting you would be possible. But if ever you stumble on this page, I just want to let you know sir that this post is my tribute to you for inspiring an ordinary young man like me (in contrast to your age) to become extraordinary, one day, someday. /end

Bontoc #TownExploration Series

Map showing the Location of #Bontoc

Click map to view latest articles covering Mountain Province

Start of Planting Season

Based on what I was seeing that moment, the Palali Rice Terraces was made up of mirror-like rice paddies reflecting the bright sky piled ingeniously one over the other signifying that each terraced rice field has been intentionally flooded to turn these mountains-turned-arable-paradise to a colossal rice bowl, as the rice paddies extend down to the Chico River as the basin.

It is the start of the planting season in when I had the chance to experience a love at first sight with her (Palali Rice Terraces) beauty. Her ancestral engineers and architects are those that I consider the realest of the real men during the time Palali Rice Terraces was still evolving to a farming paradise.

Love at first sight

Indescribable

But of course, this first time eye pleasure I experienced has to undergo a painful exploration to the pine-clad mountains as I penetrate this pine jungle for the first time where her beauty resides. It was a heterogeneous mixture of thirst and cardiovascular work-out.

Heart beats faster as my energy is depleted little by little. Muscles at my legs contract as I push harder beyond the regular limit of my strength as I climb the mountain with steep trails just to see the beauty of the Palali Rice Terraces.

Seasoned beauty

Penetrekking Mt. Data (Penetration + Trekking)

Reaching a destination that is my first time to visit has to let my feet to ache with mud and soil elements in between toes. My feet was able to endure the first time penetration of Mt. Data in , Bontoc but my thigh did most of the work.

My thigh muscles have to coordinate well with my joints for me to push more, harder and faster to make it quickie. Well, I have to do it quick because I don't want to get back to my hotel room late (since I have to catch the last trip going to the town). Pushing harder could mean muscle aches and back pain thereafter.

The view on the way to Palali Rice Terraces

Beautiful Sight to Behold: way to Palali RC

As I reach the peak, which is the climax of everything, my eyes bulged in pleasure brought by a feast-to-the-eye-destination with a little bit of brain clouding. I have just reached the point of no return. I mean, there's no going back and my thigh and leg muscles need to push some more hiking until I reach the top spot where the best vantage point is situated -- and the rest was epic: explosively ineffably semi-permanently locked jaw-dropping scenery. Do I need to describe more?

Photo Slider: Hover to Unlock Captions

This was my short-time affair with the Palali Rice Terraces. Aside from the many first times, reaching the top of the mountain just to see to see rice terraces will never be the last. It's a genesis that knows no bound, no end, as long as I'm still alive and strong.

This was an unprotected affair that is productive. It will multiply and bear new produces after the pleasure. Products such as unforgettable experiences, people I met on my travels, happy memories and new discoveries are the fruits of this first-time penetration to Palali Rice Terraces, and I know more shall come to my next love affairs in traveling. It has made me crave for more and I want to do it again and experience the pleasure in the name of adventure. /end
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HOW TO GET HERE + TRAVEL GUIDE AND TIPS
1. From Bontoc Downtown you can hire a tricycle for 120 pesos (one way). Tell the driver to drop you to Alab Oriente drop-off point which is the location of a waiting shed overlooking the Chico River and the footbridge leading to the village. You can also alight to a bus going to Baguio like Sunrise Bus and G Lizardo bus for around 30 pesos (one way). Just tell the driver to drop you to the same place I just mentioned.

2. If you think you can't find the direction to the village via the footbridge, ask any individual at the jump-off point regarding the way to Alab Oriente. You have to cross a footbridge over the Chico River and that's a hint you're now entering Alab Oriente.

3. After crossing the bridge, head to the Barangay Hall and register. Just ask the locals where is the Barangay Hall. You can actually see the hall from the drop-off point.

4. From the Barangay Hall, and if you don't know how to go the Palali Rice Terraces (meaning it is your first time), never attempt to go on your own. Get a guide from there. The journey to the Palali Rice Terraces is just a part of the package. Your destination would be the which are the location of the interesting spots you'll going to see including Palali. The other points-of-interest you can enjoy along the trail are the and the .

5. The whole trail is 3-6 hours depending on your pace. So start early. Bring a minimum of 2 liters of water. Eat a heavy breakfast and bring snacks.

6. Wear something that could protect you from bushes and/or other elements that could trigger skin allergy you could obtain along the trail. The clothes you wear should be comfortable. Wear hiking shoes. If you're planning to prepare for the clothes you should wear, Zalora Christmas Bazaar would be a convenient place for you to shop online. Don't bring unnecessary stuff. Hike as light as possible. Now you're ready to experience the pleasure of adventure!

Bontoc #TownExploration Series

Map showing the Location of #Bontoc

Click map to view latest articles covering Mountain Province

Cliff-side farming scheme at Mt. Province's high town, Sadanga

I just compared it to a roller coaster but I wasn't twisted. I didn't fall to the ground in negative Newton and never had I annoyed a town. It's just that, the thrill (a travel blogger's version for nervousness and I-don't-want-to-die-yet moment) is something that can not be experienced to more commonly traversed towns out there; like a roller coaster ride that only allows those who are brave at heart and mind.

I witnessed this view (rice terraces) in full-swing WOW, which is a pathognomonic sign of an imaginary emotional disorder I call as Cordilleriasis (Warning! #fiction) - a condition wherein everytime you think about rice terraces, you want to go to the Cordilleras instantly, compulsively. On the other hand, if the Cordilleras is a contagious disease, then the bunch of rice terraces scattered in between mountains and valleys in the region is the presenting symptom and you just can't resist the virulence of the infection.

Bekigan Rice Terraces, Sadanga, Mountain Province

A portion of Bekigan Rice Terraces

From , I started this solo backpacking to the hinterlands of Kalinga Province via riding a mini-bus (probably the smallest of it's kind in the 'mini-bus' bracket I have seen by far). I wasn't even aware that such array of rice terraces exists on my way to Kalinga.

About an hour of WOWs and OMGs (because of the view and my intolerance to beautiful scenery where I put my head out of the bus window), the journey has to make me call for the protection of the Holy Spirit; to manifest and keep me safe and sound during the travel. The road has turned disastrous.

Bontoc-Tabuk-Tuguegarao Road (Sadanga, Mt. Province Area)

The road to Bekigan Rice Terraces

The picture I am showing you above is a road in , but this is one of the best sections of the road, though evidence of rock slides and land slides is everywhere. The deadly part of the road is located near the Sadanga-Tinglayan boundary.

Enough for these road worries, I just can't get enough with my newest discovery. It's yet another cultural heritage to be added on my Rice Terraces label.

Bekigan Rice Terraces marker

According to the marker, the Bekigan Rice Terraces of Sadanga town (Sagada is different, don't be confused) is a part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site collectively known as the Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras.

While many tourists are lured with the beauty of , the most popular of it's kind in the region, some less known rice terraces like this one can actually rival the latter. The rice terraces in Batad is known for it's soaring height that made it so popular. However, I believe that each group of rice terraces in the has it's own interesting story and quality to brag about. There are just things that a certain terraced rice field could offer that others don't have if only we try to scrutinize each.

Photo Slider: Hover to unlock the captions

For Bekigan Rice Terraces, the thing that makes it different from the more popular ones is it is not well-known. It maintains it's aboriginal beauty the way the ancestors maintained it. It has no influx of tourists that triggers the popping-out of hotels, souvenir stalls and tourist crowd. It is as simple as it is. It's original purpose the time it was built thousands of years ago is the essence of the encounter. Just plain cultural heritage to that effect. Goosebumps!

Yes, not so well known that not so many tourists care about. That's a good news in my point of view. The original purpose is maintained. It is used the way it was made for that purpose. It is not altered just to fit the demands of common tourist. In this connection, not every beautiful beach should be crowded, not every mountain should be hiked and for the case of Bekigan Rice Terraces, not every rice terraces should be flocked by visitors.

Sometimes, we have to set the limit. There are just some destinations worthy of not allowing any visitor at all in the name of preservation.

The oh-freak journey to Tinglayan from Bontoc

And the journey to Tinglayan continues (and currently, I am enjoying my time in Sadanga, Mountain Province). The emotional OMG-factor heightened to a level that dwarfed the mountains around me as the road gets dirty, rough, narrow and considerably deadly without caution. The driver was an ace while two white American backpackers at the back are uttering "That's crazy! That's crazy!" as they point out to a sinking road bed with width of a very little wider than the width of our mini-bus.

Literally, if you look below from the bus window, it's a gradually falling soil bed that keeps threatening the road. A simple rain for that could turn this part impassable. What will happen to us next? Are we going to survive the trip and where is my next destination after this? Honestly, it's my first time to visit this part of the country and I am heading to a place known for headhunters, solo and unsure where's the right path after dropping off the mini-bus. I hope I can find my way to a village I have dreamed of seeing! /to be continued...

EN ROUTE: BONTOC-SADANGA-TINGLAYAN SUB-SERIES: 1 | |
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HOW TO GET HERE + TRAVEL GUIDE AND TIPS
1. From Bontoc, ride on a bus bound for Tabuk and/or Tinglayan. The parking area is located near the Mountain Province Polytechnic State College along the main road. Or if you are not sure, just ask any local politely this way: "Where is the parking area of mini-buses bound for Kalinga?" They will tell you where.

2. As far as I can remember the first trip is around 5-6 am (depending upon the volume of passengers). The second trip is around 7 am.

3. If you have your own motorbike (or should you wish to drive an SUV or a posh car - goodluck!), just follow the road northwards. It could take up to 1 hour before you reach the site. If you choose to commute, the fare (as far as I remember) is around 100-120 up to Bugnay Village in Tinglayan. You will pass through this site. Should you wish to cut the trip here, the fare would be cheaper, of course.

4. There are no accommodations near this site. It is only good for a side trip. If you opt to commute, you can see it along the way to Kalinga. Choose the window seat at the right side of the bus if you want to see the view. The marker is located at the left side of the road though (from Bontoc) which I hope you can notice - goodluck! If you choose to cut your trip here, the last bus going back to Bontoc is around 12 PM to 1 PM. Expect that the bus is already full. You may need to topload.

5. While waiting for 12 pm, you can ask locals (if any) a better vantage point of the Bekigan Rice Terraces. You may need to hike. Be sure to be back at the road by 12 PM, or else, you'll be stranded that day.

Disclaimer: The road as shown and described in this post is the condition on March 2013. Road construction is under way so the description here may be different from your experience after March 2013 since the landscape and condition of places constantly change by time.

Sadanga #TownExploration Series

Map showing the Location of #Sadanga

Click map to view latest articles covering Mountain Province

Scenic Bontoc-Tabuk Road: Near Sadanga-Tinglayan Boundary

Waking up early became so easy for a person like me who turns the morning to a snoring holiday during days-out-of-work where life starts at high noon and not on the usual 7am or 8am finger print disclosure to biometrics. The reason is, the emotion was mixing different elements that I can't contain prompting me to become insomniac.

At 5:00 am, I woke up! That was unbelievable on my part that I was able to do it (to wake up early). It made me think that I can be an early bird during backpacking.

The main road of under the dawn was devoid of noisy vehicles making me feel I owned the street. I walked along the street on my way to the area where mini-buses bound for Kalinga are parked. It was an unhealthy cardiovascular work out for a sleepless solo backpacker in the person of me. I saw several people who are early birds at the town market wearing bonnets and thick jackets probably ukay-ukay.

Bontoc-Tabuk Road: Sadanga, Mt. Province Segment

I was the first person to enter the bus bound for Province. I took the front seat just behind the driver. This will be my first time to enter the land of the last headhunters, for real.

Several minutes after, half of the bus was filled while two white American backpackers occupied the back seats.

Someday, I'll also backpack here with my motorbike

Entering the town of , the last town before Kalinga was a journey of both extremes - extremely beautiful vistas and extremely dangerous route.

The road has to pass through some . Some rice paddies have been concreted to become a road. Should I wish to snap a photo, it was just not easy to get a good angle.

Photo Slider: Hover to Unlock the Caption

There are some parts of the route where the road bed is sinking. During this time, some bridges are under construction and vehicles have to pass one at a time with caution.

I remember a narrow part of this mischievous highway wherein our bus has to stop for several minutes to allow another bus to pass even though it was very far yet.

After successfully traversing out of Sadanga, the two white American backpackers at the back shouted under a controlled volume uttering words of amazement while seeing the beautiful view that welcomed us, first-timers, in Kalinga. We're now in Bugnay, Tinglayan, Kalinga!

A Grand welcome in Kalinga, finally!

My blunt brain due to being deprived of sleep was instantly reset to sight-seeing mode after it hibernated for a while seeing this wonderful view that temporarily locked my jaw. The first ever village I have seen in Kalinga is Bugnay. I alighted from the bus and finally stepped to a Kalinga soil for the very first time!

But now, what am I doing here? In fact, I don't know where to go now. All I know is, a legendary tribal tattoo artist is living in the village at the mountains of Buscalan but where is Buscalan? Where shall I go and what are the things that happened to me during my stop-over in Bugnay? I have to say I met tattooed women face to face for the first time! Whoahhh!! I soliloquized, "Is this Kalinga? What an enchanting, somewhat unusual, exotic province where all I can see are festivals to my eyes! Fascinating!" But then again, I have to look for the trail to Buscalan. I hope I can find it and ask someone for help, and for direction. I am alone, and if I have to hike alone, I will. /to be continued...

EN ROUTE: BONTOC-SADANGA-TINGLAYAN SUB-SERIES: | 2 |

Disclaimer: The road as shown and described in this post is the condition on March 2013. Road construction is under way so the description here may be different from your experience after March 2013 since the landscape and condition of places constantly change by time.

Sadanga #TownExploration Series

Map showing the Location of #Sadanga

Click map to view latest articles covering Mountain Province

MORE POSTS FROM THIS CATEGORY: EXPERIENCES

"The Kalinga prima facie evidence in terms of beauty should not be a subject for debate because if I were to be the judge, the evidence is too strong to put the case to rest."

That day when I set foot to the land of the last generation of folks where the evidence of centuries-old tradition of tattooing is still evident, I was welcomed with nothing less but this breath-stopping view that is pupil-dilating and retina-protruding. If this is a fairy tale, my straight eyelashes could have knelt down in awe and respect without the help of an eyelash curler used by some girls in flirting, not here in Kalinga please. Pretty girls will forget they are pretty upon seeing this prettier-than-pink marvelous view of the Bugnay Rice Terraces.

Bugnay Village with the Rice Terraces all around, how cool is that?

This is the grand welcome I experienced in Kalinga for that first-time I landed within it's frontiers, on it's rugged terrain, within the bounds of it's own identity and beauty.

Based on the words of non-traveler friends I know, Kalinga is a dangerous place, and for that, I should not risk my life getting into the territories of headhunters protecting their ancestral domains from invaders. That's what these people are thinking about Kalinga.

This awful mindset could have emanated from the fact that the province is not easy to reach due to poor road conditions, so there is a few knowledge and documentation as to the beauty and intrinsic culture it has to offer that could surely gain an authority within the grounds of socio-cultural tourism.

How nice is to live in this village?

Bugnay Village can be seen along the BONTOC-TABUK ROAD. The rice terraces that decorate the village into a cultural landscape is also very visible beyond fiber glass windows of every mini-bus and/or any vehicle that traverses the road.

Those huge terraced rice fields hold that village perfectly and the villagers that maintain them. It has turned into a paradise of culture and heritage. I laughed-off the idea that is dangerous until I experienced it by myself, backpacking solo where I applied the idea of "stay calm and get lost" on which I don't know where to go next because of this unplanned trip.

How big your mouth is when you said WOW!?

How lucky am I! The unplanned trip has turned to be one of my favorite trips for a lifetime! The view of the village itself is already a warm welcome you would never think headhunters used to live here.

The moment I alighted from the bus, I hurriedly ran near the corner of the road to aimlessly wander around. My heavy backpack as the result of a 7-day backpacking in the Cordilleras has seemed to become very light as I rushed effortlessly in excitement near the cliff where I was able to afford a close to perfect vantage point.

How come this place is so cool?!

All the burdens I was feeling that moment have seemed to be carried away by the gracious wonder that has let me assume the ideology of Buddha of being under the state of Nirvana, and not even close to the self-exaltation that dirty politicians and government heads are feeling while enjoying the funds of the country under the state of evil influence.

The experience is pure, it is ethereal that it was stirring my veneration and strongly-founded belief to God who has given us a wonderful place to live. Thank you Lord!

The Road, the River, the Rice Terraces - T3

The village of Bugnay is such a very lucky place to have situated in a location where organic agriculture exists, even in raising livestock. The fresh clean air is never on doubt. The beautiful view is never moot.

The Chico River separates the village from the other side of the town so you have to cross the footbridge for you to be able to enter this culturally important destination.

Footbridge to Bugnay Village

While waiting for someone (a local, if I will be the lucky guy to find one) to help me find the direction on my way to Buscalan Village (another village located in a higher altitude accessible only on foot), I didn't let the opportunity to just pass away without me absorbing every single beautiful memory I can collect in this wondrous destination I never thought I would ever see.

How marvelous is that?

Uh! I can marvel with that!

The Kalinga prima facie evidence in terms of beauty should not be a subject for debate because if I were to be the judge, the evidence is too strong to put the case to rest.

The lucky village situated amidst gigantic verdant ladders might be too rural and left behind what's new and cool in the cities but one thing is for sure, they live within their means under the blessing of their perseverance enforced by contentment that makes them rich in life. They don't have slums, they own this huge parcel of ancestral land signifying a precolonial civilization that came first before the Spanish rule in Manila and other cities. The people of this village have their thousand-year-old civilization and culture so don't mess with them.

When all the cities have come to the point that slums are rampant, the people here will just stay calm and be rich for possessing towering mountains and ancestral lands that are truly their wealth. That has made me realize that richness is not about lifestyle, possessing gadgets and big houses. It is something that will never cease, even after death. /end

EN ROUTE: BONTOC-SADANGA-TINGLAYAN SUB-SERIES: | | 3

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HOW TO GET HERE+ EASY TRAVEL TIPS AND TRICKS
NOTE: This trip is via Bontoc

1. From Bontoc, ride on a bus bound for Tabuk and/or Tinglayan. The parking area is located near the Mountain Province Polytechnic State College along the main road. Or if you are not sure, just ask any local politely this way: "Where is the parking area of mini-buses bound for Kalinga?" They will tell you where.

2. As far as I can remember the first trip is around 5-6 am (depending upon the volume of passengers). The second trip is around 7 am.

3. If you have your own motorbike (or should you wish to drive an SUV or a posh car - goodluck!), just follow the road northwards. It could take up to 1 hour before you reach the site. If you choose to commute, the fare (as far as I remember) is around 100-120 up to Bugnay Village in Tinglayan.

4. Alight in Bugnay drop-off point. The rice terraces and the village can already be seen from there. Enjoy!

Tinglayan #TownExploration Series

Map showing the Location of #Tinglayan

Click map to view latest articles covering Kalinga

A basic need called rest

The idea of going straight to Buscalan without any contact or a guide is not a result of an emotional depression leading to suicide. This is not a suicide by the way. This is how I explore when I want to see, discover or learn something as driven by curiosity. I push beyond the limit and thanks to my friends and my parents for the warnings, though I am a stubborn son and a friend who doesn't consider friendly advice.

Looking for help and direction. It would be my first time to land to KALINGA this moment and I'm sure this won't be the last. On how I got here was the result of an interaction with a stranger in a computer shop in where I checked e-mails and social media updates through a rented computer. I heard a lady talking about in local dialect how I wish I was able to understand. But the fact that she was mentioning this place on which I have been dreaming to see because of it's authentic culture (and if there will be a good view, that's a bonus), I left my seat from the computer shop and talked to her.

I asked her about the directions going to Tinglayan and she didn't fail me. This lady was an angel from up above. The next day, I went to the location mentioned by this lady that I surmise, in her early 40s. I rode into a bus and had a rough ride through the . I passed through the high town of until I reached Bugnay, the first village in Kalinga Province from the south via the road I mentioned above..

A moment in Bugnay. From , I asked individuals how can I go to Buscalan. Someone told me I have to hike for two to three hours (may vary according to your pace). That's all they have to say. I asked if they know Fang-Od. One man told me he doesn't know her. Out of all the people who know her, I was destined to meet this man who has nothing to say at all. But I mentioned the tattoo artist (mambabatok) in Buscalan. Then he maybe recalled. He knows that woman, but not by her name.

Before I decided to hike, I spent a moment in a small settlement in Bugnay located along the road mingling with the locals and hunting for tattooed old Kalinga women. I found two. I took photos of them, they asked me for a fee. I gave them a tip as they requested.

An ancient start, an ancient stone. After gathering enough information from the locals, I started the hike. Someone pointed where should I start and that I should step to that stone. The local told me the stone I am going to step onto is the original stone used by the locals since time immemorial. It has been used by the tribesmen to hike up to Buscalan. I'm not really sure if this man was telling the truth. Remember, one of the villagers here doesn't even know who Fang-Od is.

One of the stones here is according to a local, has been used by the earliest settlers of this part of Kalinga, about hundred of years, or maybe a thousand years ago. Remember, Batad Rice Terraces is 2,000 years old.

Start of the solo hike, one of the stones is the official stepping stone

It's just an ordinary looking stone. However, the fact that this stone has been there since then and has served it's purpose for all the people who are going to Buscalan, this stone is something to look after too. It's a small yet great piece of the culture, history and heritage of the people living here.

No guide. Very limited idea. Thanks to a bus driver, the one who took charge of our lives while taking the deadly road to Bugnay. Aside from his expertise in driving to a road like this, he has been of so much help on how I should go to Buscalan. He was the one who told me to drop off in Bugnay. I told him I have heard I should stay first in a village called Luplupa but he told me that's already far and I should start the hike in Bugnay.

Well after this helpful information, wherein I saved a penny of still going to Luplupa (where a guide is available) and stay there overnight then go back to Bugnay again, the problem now is who will be my guide and how will I reach that village? Here I am again, why I am punishing myself this way? Linger, I realized I have to do this. No turning back. I am now here.

I put my backpack on the ground to at least alleviate the burden of carrying it from below and took a rest while enjoying the view.

A view of the rice terraces from a higher ground

I have heard that the tour guide whose name is Francis is from Luplupa. But since I didn't go to Luplupa and went straight to Buscalan, there is no other choice but to go alone, come what may.

Somehow I have this little fear about the possibility that headhunting exists here still. You know it's my first time and I am alone I told you. Although I have convinced myself that headhunting is long gone, my situation now pushes me to believe there are still remnants of this practice. But more than this, I have a fear of encountering insurgents for a first-timer like me who doesn't even know how to go to the place I am trying to visit.

Not enough breakfast. I remember the hotel staff in Bontoc where I stayed has to wake up early and cook for early bird's breakfast including me since I am leaving my hotel room at dawn. The chicken meal they have cooked was oh-so-good! During the hike, I started to believe that it was not a good breakfast to supply me an ample energy. If I should have known that the situation would be like this, I should have eaten more.

As I got hungry along the trail on which there's nowhere I can buy a food and I could just lost my consciousnesses anytime due to hypoglycemia, my body is demanding for a food, more carbohydrates would be better. But where should I get a food? Then I remembered something.

My gift for Fang-Od vs. my life. Before I went to Buscalan and meet Fang-Od, I bought packs of sugar and bread for her as a gift. But my body is longing for energy. The solo hike with no guide nor any idea at all on how to reach and how far the village is, was not an easy situation. Now I remember I have this food in my backpack.

So I have to open the packed breads and eat. That should be my gift to Fang-Od but I don't want to punish myself this way. To put the case to rest, I will eat. That was my first time mountainside solitary dining experience.

It's now nearly 30 minutes of hiking and I have been losing body fluids through sweat while replacing it by drinking the limited bottle of water I brought with me. Should I wanted to bring more water, it will be an additional burden for me since it makes my backpack heavier. Besides, my backpack has no more space for new items while hand-carrying a bottle of water for me is a major hassle.

This pan de sal is my gift for Fang-Od, but since I got so hungry and weak during the hike, I have to think for myself this time.

Light breakfast on a mountainside

How far? How hard? I have been hiking for about an hour now and I still can't find people along the way aside from this two cows that blocked the narrow trail I am taking. I am not even sure this time if I am following the right path. I believe I'm halfway since it has been an hour (they say it is 2 hours) but still, I can not see any individual or a village from afar. Am I on the right track?

Seeing the seemingly endless trail is killing me without being able to see the village where this leads.

It's a long long hike. More mountains to hike.

I have been grasping for breathe. I am so tired. I am so thirsty. I am getting weak. Where have all the people and the villagers gone? Where am I now? What part of Kalinga is this? Am I still in Kalinga? I am soliloquizing under the the scorching strike of the sun that is adding more agony for my weary self. I hope I am not yet lost. But if ever I'm lost, at least I'm lost now in a paradise.

I looked to that distant mountain. I can see the trail. It's a long long hike ahead. My mind has to come to the point of weighing things and at some points of time, a confusion. The fact that I am not seeing any village where this path is leading is making me weak! Where is the village? Anybody here? And what the heck still am I doing in this empty, mysterious destination without a place to buy my favorite fruit shake and a sachet of a 3-in-1 coffee I drink at least 3X a day? However, it was my decision and if something happens to me, it's my fault, but with this situation, I need a wise decision if I should continue or not. I'm halfway (how I greatly wish I'm really halfway, and how would I know?), or this would mean halfway to risking my life? I think I'm crazy. If ever I should survive the solo expedition, this will be a memorable journey -- that's for sure! But if I won't be successful to accomplish it, still, it is memorable. /to be continued...

BUSCALAN SOLO INVASION SUB-SERIES | 1 | | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7

Tinglayan #TownExploration Series

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"So I thought the hike is over, but as I took a turn on that road, I saw the other side of the mountain and it doesn't look like I am getting any closer. It goes farther, and farther..."

I've been walking, hiking and at some point crawling for more than an hour now in this beautiful space where I can not even see any single individual to at least satisfy my instinct that I am going to the right direction, to a real village, and not to be lost to an unfamiliar place. The sun is still too hot, scorching and an expert strength-grabber. I can not see any individual to call for help in this crazy thing I am doing - solo hike to a mountaintop village which is my first time to visit.

The beautiful view during the hike is alleviating my agony. However, I'm not sure if I'm going to the right path.

Agony-alleviating view

Following the Trail. Is this the right way? | Before I decided to go solo, I asked random people in if a solo hike to Buscalan is doable for my type: skinny, tall, no heart problem, determined with a well-fit jeans and no formal training in mountaineering.

Yes, I was convinced it is doable. In fact I am doing it now, but the biggest problem I am facing is if I am going to the right direction. Where are you people? Where can I ask for at least a pinch of idea or clue that the trail I am taking is not leading to an insurgent camp?

However, 80 percent of me believed that it's the right way, but then again, how would I know? How would I confirm?

More Rice Terraces

No regrets | If not for the beautiful view, I may have aborted the journey. I was thinking that there is still a reason to continue. If ever I am lost, at least I am experiencing an ancient cultural landscape, a gasp of fresh air and new beautiful memories that are testing my memory capacity.

No regrets, if ever I'm not seeing Fang-od, this memorable journey will stay forever in my heart. Seeing the beauty of is a separate accomplishment for me. It would be enough. It would be just fine than to allow the vibration of disappointment to consume me with negative elements in the spiritual world.

Seeing a mountain road | More than an hour of hide and seek (me seeking a hidden village), I have finally landed to conclusion that a village exists out there; though this time I am not yet seeing any house, or a village. I am down to the final hike to this trail and after this will be more convenient. That's what I was thinking, but actually it was not. I 'll narrate later.

Yipeeee! There's a road finally! You know, a road means a lot for me because it means there's a community, there's a civilization and there are real human beings. My hope was resurrected. My doubts diminished. My determination was focused.

It's a road, and I believe, this leads to a village

My first road encounter after the hike

I took that road. It was the only road I saw since the start of the hike. It's a big reward for an exhausted person like me getting thirsty and constantly thinking where can I buy a food and a sachet of coffee. I followed the road; I went westward.

I have chosen to go to the west because the road is going up which means it leads to a higher altitude, a theory I cling-ed onto that this road is leading me to that mountaintop village that constantly hides from my sight.

First human encounter| I continued to hike using this road, uh, it's more on walking, though the road is ascending. It still requires the hamstring strength you need in hiking. I savored the beautiful view and the fact that I survived the hike with no one to ask for direction boosted my confidence that I can finish this adventure of a lifetime.

This is a rice field at the mountaintop. But for now, I am looking for the village on a mountaintop.

A mountaintop rice field

Terraced rice field

As I walked up the road, I saw two backpackers walking against my direction. This must be exciting! They look like Caucasians. When I have been near them, I unleashed that dose of courage required to ask questions to strangers. I asked where did they come from? One told me they came from Buscalan.

Just before I have to follow-up my question, they have asked me a question, "Are you going to get a tattoo?" I said maybe. Then I learned that they are French backpackers. It made me realize that Fang-od is going global, an international tattoo artist to that effect.

Based on the statement of that French backpacker who sees me with a backpack, everyone who is walking on this road who doesn't resemble the common face of the locals will be treated as visitor who's going to see Fang-od. See? These Frenchmen knew I was going there just before I asked for directions and they confirmed I am going to the right direction; my instinct served me well.

I continued the hike and finally I have seen some houses, a school and a rest area. This time, I think I am safe as what my instinct has told me. I told you, my instinct is my guide.

I noticed this at the middle of nowhere; it is a great rest area for exhausted hikers finding for a shade.

Maybe a rest area for hikers

The first public structure I have seen since the start of the hike - the Southern Tinglayan National High School

Southern Tinglayan National High School on an accessible location

Although the French backpackers have confirmed I am going to the right way, I still took this great opportunity to ask for the direction from the words of the locals themselves. As I continue to ascend, I saw this building from afar, but I still had no idea what this building is all about. When I came close, I read the signboard. It is a school.

I remember when I was at the other side of the cliff, I shouted to a person I saw located at the other side where the school is located. I was waving my hands asking if where is the way to Buscalan. I got dismayed, they didn't understand what I was talking about, maybe because they speak a different dialect.

I went close to this school and again shouted for help (in finding the direction). Someone came over. I later learned he is a teacher of the school. He smiled at me. I smiled back. I asked the direction. He answered without hesitation. He doesn't look paranoid. Maybe, he has seen many people like me who are lost for the direction. He might have been accustomed of seeing backpackers like me going to Buscalan asking for directions. I went through and I saw more locals with friendly smiles going down the road.

Long and winding road to the village

The dead end: motorbike vs. walking | It came late to my knowledge that I can actually ride on a motorbike up to the end of the road as what some locals have told me.

But I didn't know about it. There was a feeling of regret due to the fact that I nearly collapsed in thirst. And since my breakfast has been catabolized due to the difficult hike, I ate the bread that is supposed to be my gift to Fang-od.

Should I have ridden on a motorbike, I should have not been self-punished this way for being a stubborn child who tells a lie from my parents that I am going in this place.

These galvanized structures house motorbikes. Since there is no road going to Buscalan, they have to secure their motorbikes here at the dead end

These galvanized structures are where the motorbikes are kept

I reached the dead end of the road but the end of the road is a picture of more mountains: no village was seen, no other buildings. So is this the real deal? I hoped it's more convenient now but it was not. There is a single trail from the road. I believe this was the trail to Buscalan. Hey Buscalan! How could you be so far? How could you be so hidden? How I wish there could be flights to anywhere like landing to this village, but it is just impossible, even land vehicles can not enter. Everyone needs to hike and walk.

The hike seems so endless that I can not even decipher where is the terminus

Seriously? Where is the end of the trail?

Bald yet verdant mountains with a discernible winding trail.

Everywhere is a trail. Where and when should this hiking end?

So I thought the hike is over, but as I took a turn on that road, I saw the other side of the mountain and it doesn't look like I am getting any closer. It goes farther, and farther... Well, it's still too far and I am not seeing any village again. The hike I experienced from the past 2 hours seemed like going to chase me once more - and I was right.

I have to hike for another hour again. It seemed so endless. I am now very far. All I need now is to see a person to comfort me.

This waterfalls is seen on the way to the hidden village. It is a great relaxing scene

This waterfalls is seen along the way to Buscalan

Although I was so tired, I didn't want to miss the opportunity to feel the magic of this waterfalls in Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga

The waterfalls from afar. I trekked up close although I was tired.

Seeing the village | I am finally seeing a village. Is that Buscalan? I have to say now that the village I was seeing below was not the village where Fang-od is located. But I think it is still part of Buscalan

Looking back from where I've been. Can you notice the trail at the right?

When I was already at the other side of the mountain, I realized how far I have been. I have learned the reason why Buscalan was hidden - the village can not be seen there because it has been veiled by that mountain.

The village! Sadly, this is not yet the core of Buscalan where Fang-od hails

Finally, a village...

Closer...

That time I saw this village was like winning in a lottery. I am now getting closer, and closer to my goals. It was a great thing I didn't turn back, or else, I won't see anything.

But this village is not yet the real Buscalan. The core of the village is located higher, and I still can't see from here. I need to hike up more.

I continued the hike. The air gets cooler. The fog starts to embrace me and I forgot it was a high noon. I climbed the concrete stairs. I think it was more than a thousand steps. That was a very long, long, stair that goes up and goes down. The hard part is the going up. I have to stop every now and then to rest. My energy is now really depleted.

I reached the real village. I saw dark piggies roaming around freely. I saw some children going down the concrete stairs and running. They are ace. They are not afraid to run even though the cliff is just right there. I took it slow. I didn't want to fall.

A welcome sign board at the house of Fang-od

The Fang-od sign board

I asked the villagers where is Fang-od. There I saw her name posted on a wood with red characters saying: "Welcome: Fang-od Tatoo Artist. It was written in wrong spelling but who cares? I hiked for 3 hours to see a legend and not to see a sign board. I will be meeting the woman. When she met me, the first thing she gave to me as a visitor was...(?) /to be continued...

BUSCALAN SOLO INVASION SUB-SERIES | | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7

Tinglayan #TownExploration Series

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MORE POSTS FROM THIS CATEGORY: EXPERIENCES

"She is unwittingly ending a tradition she is not supposed to end. She's ending the tradition not by her choice but by the call of our ever changing society."

She is a woman who lives in a village located on a mountaintop. She is a living frontier that is setting a border of distinction between two different dimensions of culture - of the past and of the present. She's a legend, an artist, and an empowered woman. She's an icon, an international personality and a celebrity on her own way. She is Fang-Od and her name itself is an authority; serving as the only hope of saving an endangered tradition on the path to extinction.

Piercing the flesh of a tradition

Reaching Fang-Od's location | Visiting Fang-Od requires passion and dedication. If you are not interested about her and the culture she represents, you will likely not enjoy the journey; and for the journey, it requires determination.

Her village is too remote and based on my experience, it is the remote villages that offered me purer cultural experiences. In the place where she lives, I experienced the same. The overt culture that manifests in their skin, clothes, industries and dialect is like an escape from reality. Buscalan is relatively isolated from the modern world. 2-3 hours of hiking is required to reach the village.

When I embarked to a solo hiking to reach her, my body is telling me to stop, because physically I am getting weak, but my spirit is telling me I can do it. It is where I sourced out that energy required to continue (I hope you have read the Part 1 and Part 2 of this series where I narrated how I reached Buscalan Village).

Fang-Od seems to already be accustomed with posing to a camera.

My first ever portrait of Fang-Od

First time encounter | The fog starts to appear as I reach the top of the mountain. I was welcomed with rice fields in the heavens and native highland pigs freely roaming around the community. I saw amazing people constantly smiling before me that I can not even afford to blink my eye.

I really didn't know where is the house of this great woman but as I continued to hike up to the village, I saw a crowd. The most notable amidst the crowd was the woman who is handling a piece of stick piercing the skin of a lady in early 20s in rhythmic motion. The sound produced by the execution of her tattooing method was also a music to my ears. She is faced against me and I knew she is the woman I am looking for.

This lady is acquiring a permanent mark from the hands of a legend.

This lady from Benguet is getting inked by the legend.

You know, seeing her (even her back alone) was a soulful experience that I have to consider her sacred that time. I can't find any word to describe that feeling. I stopped from where I was standing. It was still fresh in my memory that she was at the right side of me few meters way. I finally found her after all I have been through!

Someone approached me and I was sure he already knew the reason why I am here. He let me get close to the house of Fang-Od (or Whang-Od). I placed my backpack on the ground and the man asked me if I am getting a tattoo. That time, I wasn't still sure what to answer.

When Fang-Od has finished the tattooing session, she paused for a break and then came to me and welcomed me with a cup of brewed Kalinga coffee.

Fang-Od usually offers a cup of brewed Kalinga coffee to her visitors and fans.

Kalinga Brewed Coffee

An embrace and a cup of coffee | I met her face to face. I can notice in her that she is tired, but enthusiastic. You know, she usually starts the tattooing early in the morning until late in the afternoon. She is around 93 years old now as of this writing. She doesn't use eyeglasses. She has that eye of a tiger. Those who wanted to be inked by her should wait for their turn. It is a first come first serve basis. The waiting could be up to 1-3 days. If you are lucky and it so happened that you are the only visitor during your visit, then you could get a tattoo within the day, depending on the circumstances.

I have to embrace her the moment I had the chance to meet her face to face. I wasn't even sure how they treat an embrace in their culture but my mind was already clouded with the desire to touch and feel the presence of an icon that appears like a saint in my perspective.

I followed her to the kitchen. She grabbed the vacuum flask, opened it and poured out an aromatic brewed coffee in a cup. I watched her every movement. I was like a paparazzi. She gave me the cup of coffee and that was a momentous event in my life. It was an honor that a person I extremely admire is offering me something. That was the best coffee I have ever tasted!

The face of a legend

Who is Fang-Od? | Ok, I have written a lot of my experiences with her above and I think I have to introduce her this time for those who do not know her yet.

Fang-Od is a tribal tattoo artist living in a once-sleepy-mountaintop-village of Buscalan under the jurisdiction of the town of in the province of . She is considered to be the last tribal tattoo artist of the Philippine Cordilleras, a region occupied by different tribes with substantially similar culture and traditions although they are divided into subgroups based on their dialects, distinct beliefs and location.

Fang-Od rose to fame due to her appearance on national television, magazines, blogs, video documentaries and other types of medium both locally and internationally. In fact, she is a tourist attraction herself and has brought that huge number of visitors to their village that has influenced and changed the way of living of the community she represents. Some people have become self-employed because of her. Some ordinary houses have become accommodations for tourists and backpackers.

Precious smile

That is, being the last living authentic tribal tattoo artist of the region, it dragged the attention of backpackers, travelers and even ordinary people fascinated with this kind of story. She is the last saving grace for the tattooing culture of their tribe to still exist. After she dies, the tradition of tattooing will be extinguished.

Interested parties got crazy to get a tattoo from her bringing a huge number of visitors to their remote village. Some foreign nationals even fly to the Philippines only just to get a tattoo from her.

The method of tattooing is called by them as "batok" and she is also referred to as the "Last Mambabatok."Batok is the root word, it could either be a verb (to put a tattoo) or a noun (the art itself as a product of tattooing). Mambabatok can be translated as "the person who performs the art of batok."

Because of this very unique story (of being the last), she has been featured by Kara David of i-Witness, a documentary show in the Philippines, by the Discover Channel, the National Geographic and to numerous print media all over the world.

The method of tattooing | The method employed by Fang-Od is still the original method practiced by her ancestors centuries ago.

She uses the traditional materials: a piece of stick used to attach the thorn of a citrus plant (the thorn serves as a needle), another piece of stick, this time is bulkier, used to cause the other stick with thorn to pierce the skin and a charcoal or the black carbon deposits accumulated on her cooking pot as a result of burning firewood to cook.

This is the kind of ink Fang-Od uses in tattoing

Fang-Od's ink is a mixture of water and carbon by-product of combustion

Fang-Od is about to draw the outline to the skin of the tourist.

Fang-Od, about to draw the outline

From those materials, she starts by drawing an outline to the skin that serves as her guide in consummating a more detailed and intricate design.

I really don't know how she creates those intricate designs because while she performs the tattooing, the skin is oozing with blood which hereby makes ordinary observer to think how she draws a pattern to a skin covered with blood. After a couple of strokes to the skin covered with blood, she wipes it with a cloth and viola! The design is already there, out of the blue! She is amazingly amazing!

In danger of extinction | The people of the modern-day Kalinga have stopped getting these tattoos because the mindset of beauty has changed. In fact, during those times when tattooing is still a common practice, tattoo for women means beauty.

Nowadays, extensive tattoos for women look untidy, in a sense, and employers mainly look for applicants who look clean. This is just one of the reasons why the younger generations no longer want to conform with the old tradition; they want to get a job, hence, Fang-Od is setting the borderline of two different dimensions of culture. She is unwittingly ending a tradition she is not supposed to end. She's ending the tradition not by her choice but by the call of our ever changing society.

Photo Slider: Hover on photo to unlock the caption

Transferring the skill | Fang-Od, however, has trained her niece. She has no child because she never married. Although her niece is interested in that art, her reason is actually to earn money from tattooing like her auntie. Her auntie Fang-Od has turned to be the wealthiest woman in her village because of the influx of tourists that pay her at least 500 up to 3000 pesos (or more) per tattoo, depending upon the size of the tattoo, on a daily basis. Apparently, foreigners pay a higher amount compared to Filipino tourists.

If the skill transfer to her niece is to be considered a way to preserve the tradition, I would say it does not really preserve the tradition because the reason why her niece is doing the art is not to conform with the mandates of their culture, but to harness the lucrative market of tourists that visit their village to get a tribal tattoo. The motivation is basically not emanating from their cultural heritage and practices but by extrinsic factors not related to their culture at all. So I disagree with some claims that her niece is going to preserve the substantial principles of the tradition of tattooing. Fang-Od is definitely the last 'authentic' tribal tattoo artist and the last living person in this region to have really done a tattoo by reason of their culture (although she is doing it now for tourists).

By the way, this village speaks their own dialect and the people here call themselves the Butbut Tribe.

How to Visit Fang-Od? | 1. The first step in reaching Fang-Od is to reach first. Below are some ways on how to reach Bontoc from different locations.

(a) FROM METRO MANILA: Ride on Cable Tours (Bus) which has a terminal along E. Rodriquez Avenue in Quezon City near St. Luke's Hospital. They have daily trips to Bontoc at around 12 noon.

(b) FROM BAGUIO CITY: Go to Dangwa Terminal and ride to any vehicle of your preference that goes to Bontoc, be sure to be there early because trips to Bontoc usually start very early.

(c) FROM ILOCOS (LAOAG/VIGAN) or LA UNION via CERVANTES: Drop off at Bitalag Junction in TAGUDIN. Be sure to be in Bitalag Junction on or before 7 AM. If you are from Laoag, ride to a Manila-bound bus and be sure to get a ride from there as early as 3 am. You will reach Bitalag by 7 am. If you are from Vigan, you must already be on a bus by 5 AM, or earlier so that you can catch the earliest trip to Cervantes by 7 AM.

Once in Bitalag Junction, ride on a van bound to Cervantes. Once in Cervantes, ride on a van bound to Abatan, Bauko (mention Bauko because there is another Abatan in Buguias). From Abatan, ride on a van to Bontoc. You'll be there by lunchtime. If you don't know the location of van terminals, just ask the locals.

2. After reaching Bontoc, you have to stay there overnight. Wake up early the next day and go to the terminal of mini-buses bound for Kalinga. You can ask the locals for that. It is near the Mt. Province State College. Be sure to be there by 5 am. Tell the driver to drop you to .

3. From Bugnay, you can ask the locals there where to get a motorbike ride. Some motorbikes can be hired to get you to the jump-off point for Buscalan (road dead end). From the dead end, hike to Buscalan.

If there is no motorbike available, just ask the locals of BUGNAY where is the trail going to Buscalan. There is only 1 distinct trail there. Follow the distinct trail and the terminus of this trail is the Buscalan Village. You might have to hike for 2-4 hours depending on you pace. Enjoy and Good Luck!

With Fang-Od and my sun-burned face

More than Fang-Od | When I learned that she is already very old at 92 years old (that time), I worried that she may be gone too soon so I rushed to plan this trip with the determination that I will still see her alive.

When I met her, she was as healthy as a young lady. She has no complain of joint pain. She has this good eyesight and can still hike around the village (her village is naturally a hiking ground due to it's physical terrain). So I surmise, she can still live long. Long life is very common in this village engaged in organic farming.

But it doesn't stop there, there are more stories to share in this village. Buscalan is a cultural package and Fang-Od is just a part of this package. There are other things we need to know more about Buscalan. I have more experiences here, more than Fang-Od. /to be continued...

*BUSCALAN SOLO INVASION SUB-SERIES | | | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7

Tinglayan #TownExploration Series

Map showing the Location of #Tinglayan

Click map to view latest articles covering Kalinga

Longest Zipline in Asia

At a very mysterious village at the slope of Mt. Apo is the sanctuary of the Moncaditas. Moncadista is a religious sect who considers their village as the paradise. They also consider some parts of Mt. Apo as the final destinations of the dead, like heaven and hell.

The village is called New Israel; it is where the longest zipline in Asia is located. To note, this is my first zipline experience. I consider it epic because I directly experienced the longest without conditioning myself to try the short others. I am not really sure if a new zipline has arisen to break it's length record. But of course, that time, it was the longest. My local host brought me here. Thanks to her and I am sure she is reading this

TOP 12: INTER-PROVINCIAL ELF-TRUCK RIDING

This is by far my longest elf-truck back-riding adventure.

3 provinces, 1 elf-truck, unlimited adventure

I was able to explore some parts of the 3 provinces in Mindanao by riding at the back of an elf-truck with a great group. At first, it was a hesitant decision being a great earthquake has just cracked and damaged the roads, bridges and other public structures in North Cotabato and Bukidnon. What else? There is a big rain (sort of typhoon or monsoon) flooding many towns the night before the adventure. Deadma, the non-stop inter-provincial elf-truck back-joyriding's excitement overpowered our fear.

Epic. We started before sunrise and went home after sunset. The joy ride went through, in spite of the cracked roads and flooded towns we have to pass through. So where have we been and what we did? Watch out for the stories on 2014.

TOP 11: JAM-PACKED 3-HOUR ADVENTURE IN SAGADA

With my brother, at the Kiltepan Peak View Deck.

We are brothers, and we are [bachelor] backpackers

This was my first time in Sagada. For that very first time, the chance to explore the place was limited to 3 hours. That precious limited time was a remedy and the result of a major decision over Banaue and/or going home to catch my schedule for the job I am committed to do.

I consider it epic because we were in a hurry as we hired a random guide we just met along the way. With my brother, we were able to climb the Kiltepan Peak, visit Bokong Falls, the Echo Valley, the Hanging Coffins, the Rocky Valley, the Latang Underground River and of course, to eat Halo-Halo before the last trip out of the town -- all within 3 hours! Fierce! We were fast and furios!

TOP 10: SPELUNKING SUMAGUING CAVE 'WITHOUT' A GUIDE

Spelunking Sumaguing Cave without a hired guide.

Sumaguing Cave in Sagada

I can't get enough with Sagada, after that short 3-hour adventure, I went back after 2 weeks of returning to my regular job. This time, with an ol' good friend, dates back to childhood, now a Canadian citizen after a dose of hard work and faith. We, both knew how it feels to have nothing because we grew up getting used with nothing. Now that we have studied hard, surviving the financial challenges of sending ourselves to the university, we met again; now, with 'something.'

We reminisced those days when we drool seeing [more] fortunate children wearing their good clothes eating inside a Jollibee branch wherein that time, we can't even afford to enter. Since we are that type of grown-up children missing our careless childhood with dirty over-sized clothes, we decided not to get a guide. You know, we are get used of taking the risk because when we were young, taking the risk is all it takes to get a chance and fortune since we didn't have the wealth those times. We knew the risk, but we are born "madiskarte." This so-called diskarte made us were we are now - doing anything fair and wholesome to achieve our dreams.

So what's epic here? Of course we tried to relive our chilhood diskarte to achieve a goal within our means. We had the fund, but we opted to limit our budget and still achieve a goal. Hence, this spelunking without a guide. On how we survived safe and alive is the result of a diskarte we learned from our childhood (more of this story on 2014).

TOP 9: KULIGLIG RIDING THROUGH MUD

Muddy Trail

So it was my first time to ride on a tractor or kuliglig. At some point, we have to get off and push the tractor over muddy terrain.

What makes this adventure epic is the fact that this tractor was able to contain up to 15 people squeezed altogether for the love of journeying in spite of the direful road. Our destination? I will reveal next year, that's 2014. Well, 2014 is for Mindanao adventures patiently waiting in their queue.

TOP 8: THE MOST EXTREME SPELUNKING, SO FAR

Avenue Cave in Pisan, Kabacan, North Cotabato is your bad-ass subterranean destination.

Avenue Cave in North Cotabato

Another from Mindanao, so far, takes a part of my heart as I experience the most extreme spelunking I've ever done in my life. It was a total package for extremists.

Epic extreme activities included inside this cave is walking through an above-ankle-deep mud, rappelling the deadly way (no harness + slippery wood and rocks), crawling through the stinky rocks covered with bat poops and sustaining at least one wound or skin cut (not required, but inevitable).

TOP 7: EPIC RIVER CROSSING

Crossing the river in Alamada, with the aid of this mega-excavator.

Stranded in the middle of the current.

So pushing it beyond the limits is all it takes for this group of adventurers where I hitched to reach a destination secluded by civil wars and insurgency.

The river crossing was just memorable that we pushed beyond the limit. What happened next was epic. 2014 will reveal the story behind this adventure.

TOP 6: 15 DAYS OF BACKPACKING IN THE HIGHLANDS, CORDILLERA

Batad Rice Terraces in Ifugao

One of my favorite journeys in 2013 is my 15 days of backpacking in the Cordilleras covering Luna and Pudtol in Apayao, Bontoc and Sagada in Mountain Province, Banaue (includes Batad) in Ifugao, Bangued in Abra, Tinglayan (Bugnay ang Buscalan) in Kalinga and a road trip via the Halsema Highway all the way to Baguio in Benguet.

10 days of this adventure was solo-done, while the remaining 5 days was spent with a friend. There are more places to see in the Cordilleras, more surprising than the popular ones.

TOP 5: 1 MONTH OF BARRIO-LIVING IN MINDANAO

Biking around a Mindanao Barrio, killing time.

Biking in a peaceful Mindanao Barrio to kill time

My 1 month stay in Mindanao in a laid-back barrio was a major enlightenment for me when I was drooling seeing some FB friends enjoying the good sides of being a Digital Nomad. This adventure (in life) has helped me chart a major decision, hence, epic.

This lengthy vacation-travel has taught me what I really wanted to do. At first, I wanted to become location independent. So this 1 month vacation was a trial-and-error. I realized, chillaxing, killing time, getting some adventures or simply biking around a place, continually, was not the kind of life I wanted. When I am in a vacation, I forget the definition of stress. But with this lengthy vacation, I realized that the things I am doing become routine-ary that I am missing my regular job.

This time, I realized that the value of a thing can only be appreciated if it is gone. For that 1 month of pure traveling, I temporarily lost my job. From there, I started to realize the value of my job. I suddenly missed becoming productive and creative as a result. Whenever I see young professionals wearing their dignified uniforms and see myself purely having fun without being productive in an active job, I envy them and it makes me want to wear that uniform again and get back to my work as a professional. I came up to the realization that my job is as important as traveling.

Non-stop traveling becomes usual in due time. So to get the excitement back to traveling, I have to attend my regular job until the thirst for adventure makes me weak again. To gain strength, I have to satisfy the thirst. I think, balance is important, of family, of work and of leisure.

TOP 4: SOLO HIKE TO BUSCALAN, NO GUIDE

Fang-od, the ~93-year-old tattoo artist of Kalinga

Fang-od: an Epic Tribal Tattooist

The 4th spot is reserved for my solo hike to Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga -- the place where a ~93-year-old woman resides.

In all my adventures in 2013 from Luzon, Visayas to Mindanao, I have only written 2 towns: Bontoc and Tinglayan. If you are a regular reader of this blog, I believe you have already read my story about that solo hike to Buscalan to meet Fang-od and on how epic it was.

TOP 3: #SPG

The 3rd most epic adventure belongs to a journey that I am not yet ready to disclose. There are things in life that make the world a better place if they are kept as a secret. Right? #SPG and steamy.

TOP 2: 3-DAY NON-STOP ISLAND HOPPING FROM LUZON TO MINDANAO

A family that travels together, stays together

This is something that I treasure traveling by land (via RoRo) from my hometown Vigan to Davao. What makes this adventure epic is the presence of all the members of my family. Yes, we traveled together by crossing straits in between islands from Luzon, Samar, Leyte to Mindanao. It was my suggestion, great thing the reception for that crazy idea of traveling was all-fun for them. So far, it is the longest time my family stayed close together within four corners and/or within the 100 meters radius. At home, we only spend up to 16 hours a day (during sleep + daytime chit-chat) and after that, we go to work. This time it was 3 days!

Epic. Just another family of contemporary vagabonds! Just this time.

TOP 1: 15 DAYS OF MOTORBIKE ADVENTURES, NON-STOP, UNDER THE MONSOON

15-days in Abra. One Motorbike. 22 Towns. Countless Thrill.

The scheme I employed in this wander-lustful adventure is the rain-or-shine-journey type of exploration. The monsoon that brought heavy flooding in Metro Manila last September extended it's power up north. So Abra was not spared, but the adventure must continue. Together with a new friend, we bravely hit the wet road, rough and harsh.

Epic. Indeed the most epic because this 15-days of exploring Abra via motorbike under the monsoon is giving rise to a book that will be published next year (2014). Fair enough right?

This is EDMARATION #TownExplorer's official entry for the December 2013 Pinoy Travel Bloggers' Blog Carnival hosted by Brenna Bustamante of The Philippine Travelogue

To see the previous compilations, click the logo at left.

Happy New Year everyone and see you in 2014 for more #TownExplorer type of adventures. Bolder. Fiercer. Steamier./end

#TownExplorations You Might Like

Map of the Destinations Mentioned in this Post

Click to Enlarge Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

The mountainside villages have been hidden by the fog

So if you wish to experience a tropical white Christmas in Sablan, survive first a challenging ride through roads already blurred with thick fog. Drive slowly and keep safe and enjoy!

(2) MT. POLIS

Mt. Polis is located at the border of Banaue and Bontoc in the Cordilleras. A road connecting those towns passes through Mt. Polis. Due to it's higher altitude, this area is often covered with thick fog even if it is summer.

Most of the time, Mt. Polis is white, even during summer

So if you want to experience a tropical White Christmas in this part of the country, get ready to be frozen. Anyway, there are several coffee shops waiting to give you warmth here any time of the year.

Erratum: Please forgive me for the wrong photo label, it should be #BONTOC * MOUNTAIN PROVINCE * PHILIPPINES and not #BANAUE * MOUNTAIN PROVINCE * PHILIPPINES since Banaue is part of Ifugao.

(3) PRE-SUNRISE AT THE KILTEPAN PEAK

Why not spend your Christmas the adventurous way as you climb to the top of the Kiltepan Peak in Sagada? This is one of the best spots to experience a White Christmas in Sagada if you do it before sunrise.

Kiltepan Peak in Sagada is white before sunrise.

Pine trees within the white air

The intensity of the White Christmas here at the Kiltepan Peak in Sagada escalates when the thick sea of clouds starts to appear and veil the sunrise. You're simply above the clouds which makes you feel like you're at the heavens.

(4) SITIO AGCO, ILOMAVIS

Another whitey place you might want to spend your Christmas is Sitio Agco in Brgy. Ilomavis. This village is an ancestral domain of the Manobo tribe located on a high altitude at the slope of Mt. Apo, the Philippines' highest mountain.

The forest in Ilomavis is covered by fog.

Jungle trees soar high inside the forest covered with fog

There are actually several adventure destinations in Ilomavis like visiting a boiling lake of Agco, Jacuzzi waterfalls or simply trek in search for waling-waling orchids (but please don't take any plant you see, just look, don't get). Ilomavis is located in Kidapawan City of Mindanao Island, Philippines.

(5) BESSANG PASS NATIONAL PARK

Ilocos Sur is known to be a province rich in history and heritage. In Bessang Pass, the history is never leaving your White Christmas experience because this site is where a battle happened - Battle of Bessang Pass (World War II).

This picnic ground in Bessang Pass is good for sipping a coffee.

The dangerous cliff can deceive you with this beautiful white background

Brave Ilocanos sacrificed their lives to defeat the imperial forces of the Japanese people here in Bessang Pass. Fog is very much present here all year round which turns the landcape white.

(6) BAKUN

The welcome arch to the town of Bakun, oftentimes, deprive you of getting an idea what to see in this highland town of Benguet. The road entering the town seems like leading to nowhere which feels like your destination is somewhere there, in the fog.

Bakun is another highland foggy town in Benguet.

Entering Bakun. The destination beyond the road is mysterious.

Bakun is a tribal town inhabited by fair-skinned people with almond-shaped eyes. Get immersed with the people or simply enjoy the White tropical Christmas. When you see fair-skinned chinito people speaking in a dialect with ch-, -ng and f- sounds, it's like you're in China.

(7) ATOK

When we talk about fog and tropical White Christmas, Atok is grossly, the place to be. Atok town in Benguet is where the highest point of the Philippine Highway System is located. The highest village in the Philippines is also under the jurisdiction of the municipality of Atok.

Gross Fog in Atok makes it the closest picture of a real White Christmas.

Fog in Atok is not selective, as in fog is everywhere in town.

Atok is where I experienced that first chill wherein I thought I am gonna die secondary to hypothermia. I shivered gravely to death. I consumed 2 cups of coffee within few minutes but it was not enough to give me warmth. I think Atok is the best place to experience a White Christmas - the closest picture of the real white Christmas with snow. To note, ice even falls down from the sky in this town. Water is also gravely cold. You might skip taking an early morning bath.

Due to it's altitude, the town's vegetable farmers are at times hit by frost thereby damaging their crops. Atok is 46 kilometers away from Baguio City.

(8) BUSCALAN

The high-altitude village of Buscalan is also a good place to experience a White Christmas with a touch of immense cultural display.

Buscalan is the home of Kalinga's Last Tattoo Artist, Fang-od.

Buscalan is the home of Fang-od, the last tribal tattooist of Kalinga.

Since the village is higher than any other area seen nearby, the cliffs surrounding Buscalan is occupied by a sea of fog. So the village turns out to be an island in the sky outcropping from the white air.

(9) BAUKO

This town in Mountain Province is yet another exciting destination to spend your tropical White Christmas. It can give the chill you are looking for plus a white environment that can stay until high noon.

Foggy Road in Bauko

Enjoy the smell of the fog (yes, it's aromatically fresh) of Bauko and try to find the sunrise, good luck, and your Christmas would never be the same again.

(9) BATAD

Batad is not all about the over 2000 years old rice terraces but also for a White Christmas display. To experience it's White tropical Christmas offering, wake up early (before sunrise) to catch the massive build-up of fog over the mountains of Batad and nearby villages in Banaue.

Fog covers the mountains of Batad before sunrise.

Fog-capped mountain, 'coz there's no snow

The view above is taken from the Batad Saddle. The whitey mountain ranges have turned the view unusual as the sunrise is trying to color the sky with gold.

(10) MALIBCONG

Malibcong is yet another remote town in Abra. It's highland communities are lucky enough to experience a weather that's cool all year-round. Fog also builds up over the mountains anytime of the day.

The white display is gone, the golden sun rays have colored the sky.

The white display has been defeated by the golden colors of the sunset.

The photo above is taken during sunset so the whitey environment is gone. This town is also an ancestral domain of three tribes. Enjoy the fog and be lost beautifully in this far, far away destination.

__________________________________________________________

So I hope you got what I mean when I said White Christmas. We do not have snow in the Philippines but we have our own way of experiencing a White Christmas, in fact, some of the destinations mentioned can still offer you a white Christmas anytime of the year -- or even White Summer, White Valentines, White September. The Philippines has it all! Be Proud. Stay Proud. And to note, the Philippines has the longest Christmas in the world! /end

#TownExplorations You Might Like

Map of the Destinations Mentioned in this Post

Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

My last beach tan in 2013

So I grabbed my motorbike and drove my way to the nearest beach after I finished my job that day as an employee of humanity. Time has come so fast. It's like a bubble that bursts to infinity. The year 2013 is going to be buried, inevitably, to the pit of forevermore.

As I reach the beach which is very familiar to me, childhood memories flashed back. Here is where I learned to love the coast, the blue waters, and to exaggerate my already dark skin by getting an additional tan. It's really fast. I'm now 25.

A QUIET CLOSING DAY IN MINDORO BEACH

This is the last sunset of 2013 and my spirit was lead to be in this place to reflect the goodness of the Lord for the year that is going to be extinguished, also for the great things and achievements that tapped my shoulders.

Laid back beach on the last day of 2013

The place is just close to perfection for the setting my heart is longing for: quiet, peaceful and infinite.

There, the last earthly physical light made the ocean to sparkle; but the golden hour is strongly present, turning the sky to flashes of golden brightness hovering over the horizon. Ahhh! This is the last sunset of the year. This is it. Cheers for the good life. Cheers!

LAST BEACH LIFE OF 2013

I have spent this year traveling to places which I consider as my childhood dream girl, those times when I treat inanimate objects as subject for love, I was weird right? -- this is the mountain, the highland, the interior or whatever you call that. I love mountain more than the beach actually. But this time, I went to a beach that is special in my heart to spend my last bum.

Bummed, for the last few hours of the year

No crowd, I was confident enough to capture enormous selfies. It was freedom! I watched the last set of waves that hopelessly grabbing the dark-sand coast. I breathed the last set of fresh air from the ocean this year. I left my last footprints in the sand. I swam in great joy as I was cuddled by the waves. Life was great!

2 0 1 3 - REFLECTIONS

2013 is undeniably a blessing and a challenge for me. I underwent through the crisis of the quarter-life. I came up with a new definition of success. I was in fact in a deep trouble but came to realize that all we wanted in life is happiness and contentment, right?

Photo Slider: Last set of 2013 selfies (Hover to unlock captions.)

I realized that money should not and must not control us. I have to say I don't have a high-paying job to support the lust I carry in wandering to places. I figured out that sometimes, money is already ruling my life. I work on a daily basis for a mixture of crappy and fulfilling things in exchange of money, and I don't like the crappy part where in you are doing it because of money.

2013 LIFE LESSON

For 2013, I learned to teach myself the art of gratitude and contentment. I realized that my discontentment in life is what leading me to work-to-death for money's sake. Yeah, I MUST control money, and I won't let money control me. So do you think that's easy? Of course not. We need to be emotionally and mentally prepared.

This beach boy is going to chase God's purpose of his existence

Right now I am into the process of devaluing money and material things. It should not consume my life in exchange of doing things that don't make me happy and fulfilled. Yes, I still need money and material things (of course everyone does), but my focus is to stick with the little things in life that makes us a happy, contented, and ever-productive individual.

Lessons of the last sunset

For a happy life, I should be contended with what I have and spend within my means. Buy what I can afford and never force myself to bleed and get lost in a disastrous job for the latest gadget of Apple that is only temporary and can never be brought after death. Leaving a legacy, that is. Don't invest in material things that are not substantial for growth and maturity. I want to do something that will make me remembered even after death. Legacy, that is. It is forever. It is eternal. An infinite inspiration that money can't buy, for the glory of God. (end)

Vigan #TownExplorations Series

Map Showing the Location of #Vigan

Click map to view latest articles covering Ilocos Sur

Spotted! A jar in the grave

One intriguing discovery I encountered in is a mass grave with evidence of jar burial. In fact burial caves in the Cordilleras is not uncommon. However, burial caves with evidence of jar burial is unusual.

This burial rite, though a bit unusual in the Cordilleras has also been practiced by the ancient people to some parts of the Philippines like in Palawan (Manunggul Burial Jars).

Jar surrounded with pine coffins

It is mysterious why the early inhabitants have to bury the dead with earthenware. My guide told me that the dead person placed inside this jar must have been special.

Of course, I didn't want the opportunity to just pass by me. So I have to get up close with this special jar to see what's inside it. Whoaahh! Skeletons...

Jar with skeletons!

The person placed inside this jar is thought to be someone who is special, with special role in the society: could have been a leader, or a person with great influence. Well, everything is just a theory. No one can seem to puzzle this mystery accurately.

The ancient past will just give us a glimpse of what have happened during those times. But the rationale behind these events remain as a question. They left an evidence to let us know they once existed but the complete details on why they have to do this is a thing only known to them.

With the jar inside the Ganga burial cave (background)

The burial jar still in good shape

It was a great fulfillment for me to be able to discover, learn and understand the ways of the past. Doing this is completing the missing link in my life.

I have just learned and discovered a lot in this village and I believe I am still going to discover more. I left Ganga Caves fulfilled, contented and tired but another site is actually, still, waiting for me.

It is a stone house, no longer a cave, also located in the mountains of Alab Oriente. There are huge stones, impossible (or almost impossible) to carry in our time even if we use machinery, shaped like a pyramid standing on a steep, hidden portion of the mountain. Uh! I am so overloaded with mysterious things! There are even formations, made up of rocks piled over the other that is showing a message, and a BIG mystery, again... and again! /to be continued...

*ALAB ORIENTE DOCUMENTARIES SUB-SERIES | | | | | | 6 | |

Bontoc #TownExploration Series

Map showing the Location of #Bontoc

Click map to view latest articles covering Mountain Province

The mountains that hide Buscalan

...but now that I still have the chance to share my experiences through this kind of platform, I will, and Buscalan occupies a piece of my heart and I want to keep those memories to last a lifetime through this piece I am writing now, on this blog. Now, allow me to share to you the great memories Buscalan has offered me. In Buscalan, I can't afford to forget the wonderful memories and the moment I spent with the people and the amazing culture that made me love the village. The following are the sweetest memories arranged randomly.

(1) KUYA CHARLIE AND THE NOSE FLUTE

Kuya Charlie, my local host playing the nose flute.

First time to see (and hear) a nose flute

Kuya Charlie was my local host when I was in Buscalan. He showed me how beautiful the village where he lives. He cooked food for me. He welcomed me with warm open arms.

The most memorable is when he played a nose flute. Yes, nose flute, it creates musical sound by the air coming out from the nose. On how Kuya Charlie did it is a thing I can not explain. I never tried. I was already happy encountering a nose flute for the first time. Hearing the beautiful and relaxing sound was a bonus.

(2) THE WATERFALLS IN BUSCALAN

This waterfall in Buscalan is a good stop after the tiring hike.

A practical way to refresh from the long hike

After a long, long tiring hike to Buscalan, this waterfall is a great and wonderful stop. It was like an aromatic coffee that awakens the senses while fighting the boredom of the night.

This time, this is the centerpiece of the energy-depleting adventure. This waterfall invites everyone before the final ascend to Buscalan.

(3) A SCHOOL AT THE HEAVENS

The fog has cuddled this mountaintop school.

Buscalan Elementray School

The village of Buscalan occupies the top portion of the mountain. You can, in awe, see the surrounding lower mountains, the rice terraces from a perfect vantage point and the morning fog that is creating an enclosing magical wall around the village.

When the pupils grow old, how I wish they will forever appreciate the school they used to attend and spend the day to study the Philippine geography; and be very proud that their school is located at the heavens.

(4) LITTLE ACE HIKERS

These children don't just hike, they run.

Buscalan's little expert mountain trekkers, uphill or downhill.

The children of Buscalan are authentic mountain climbers and hikers. What's noticeable is they don't just hike, they run. They run fast as they go down the village using both the concrete stairway from and to their heaven and the rough ones too with ease to visit their rice terraces. After a day's work at the fields, they hike up again to their home fulfilled, happy and strong.

They are the real hikers and the trend continues even when they get old because people here have long lives. 90-year-old folks still do hike, pound their crops and go to the fields. Actually, one 93-year-old woman here can even give you a memorable intricate tattoo without using eyeglasses.

(5) NEW FRIENDS I MET

New Friends slash New Family slash New Housemates

Part of the great memories I collected in Buscalan is meeting a new set of friends. These people became my instant housemates. We have just skipped the 'stranger zone' and went automatically to the friend zone. Better, we became like one big family with a home. That is the kind of family that only Buscalan can give.

(6)THE SOLO HIKE

I hiked to Buscalan using my instinct as guide.

The memorable journey to the unknown

If there's something I will never ever forget, that would be my . I have experienced a lot of physical and emotional bruises upon doing this. It has left a permanent mark in my heart, a permanent memory.

My destination was uncertain. I am going to somewhere I have heard but I do not know. That's the magic of Buscalan, magnetic, and I want to experience again the joy and success arising from uncertainties.

(7) BUSCALAN'S MOST ICONIC SIGN BOARD

This sign board signifies the presence of a legend.

Plastered at Fang-od's house

It was misspelled. But definitely, you can never be wrong visiting Buscalan. Meeting a living icon is the essence of visiting Buscalan, not this sign board.

I have only seen 2 sign boards here by far. This one and the Buscalan Elementary School. When I first saw this sign board, it was like: "Oh my God! Oh my God! This is Buscalan! This is Buscalan's version of welcome arch without the name of the place written on it!"

(8) SLAUGHTERHOUSE

This man prepares the food.

I can not also forget this villager who slaughtered a native swine inside Fang-od's house. People here are naturally skillful: from hiking, tattooing, blacksmith-ing and this one, slaughtering. In the city where I live, people enroll to slaughtering training school to learn. I think here, they learn it by heart from the culture that continually educates them. Wishing I may learn this too someday. But my instructor-of-choice would definitely be this man, or anyone from Buscalan.

(9) MY FIRST KALINGA COFFEE

My first cup of Kalinga coffee

If I am not mistaken, this is an Arabica coffee grown in the highlands. For such case, it is also my first time to taste an Arabica coffee.

It was Fang-od who served me this cup of coffee. Of course, I won't forget that moment. A cultural legend and trend setter is serving a conformist like me. Whew! Fang-od offered me something and that is something beyond what I could ask for.

(10) NATIVE PIG, FREELY ROAMING

Right to liberty

If detention for livestock is a crime, in Buscalan, only a little to none is guilty. The livestock here enjoy their right to liberty, and the right to travel. No detention. They share an equal right with humans. This is a village for everyone: pig, chicken, human.

(11) TEMPORARY HOME

My home in Buscalan

My local host in Buscalan and the people that reside there did not make me feel that I am away from my family. Truth to be told, this place is a totally different set-up from the place where I live but the community has made me feel like I am not a stanger. I felt like I was a member of the tribe. I was lucky.

(12) BLACKSMITHING IN BUSCALAN

Man-of-Stone

Buscalan rose to fame because of Fang-od. But Buscalan is more than Fang-od. It is more than the tribal tattoo. Roaming around the village is free. So while being in a queue to get a tattoo, explore the village and see the blacksmiths, up there. Blacksmithing here is an industry that helps bring in money for the villagers.

(13) EATING FROGS IN THE MOUNTAIN

Ready for the Frog Adobo (adobong palaka)

Eating frog is not new to me. I grew up eating frogs in my hometown. Before I encountered this, I thought these frogs are only seen in the lowlands where swamps and ponds appear after the rain. During rainy season at home, our backyard becomes noisy as frogs start to appear and shout ko-kak, ko-kak, ko-kak until after midnight.

I have to say I am surprised when I saw this, highland frogs. I am just wondering where did they get it. I didn't see any swamp, pond or wetlands except the well-irrigated rice terraces at some parts of the village.

(14) THAT ACCIDENT

Typical Buscalan House

Many houses in Buscalan are piled-dwellings, elevated from the ground. So everyone needs to step onto the stairs, even children. During my stay, I was surprised when I heard panicky sounds coupled with people rushing to the direction of the source of the sound. I was curious. I followed them only to find out that a little girl has fallen from the house to the ground. The girl was unconscious. There was no hospital there. I went to the center of the helpless crowd. At the middle of the thick build up of people was the little girl cuddled by her mom crying on the ground. I checked her pulse. It was beating. Great news.

I asked her mother if the little girl vomited. The mother told me her daughter didn't vomit. I checked her extremities and it seems like there are no signs of injury aside probably that her brain was jarred (concussion) by the impact of falling. The girl was still unconsious that time but she was breathing. One thing I wasn't sure is if the girl had spine injury. I hope she is fine now.

(15) CANDLELIGHT DINNER

The cold, black dinner

Power in Buscalan is not infinite. It has limits warranting us to have our first dinner as housemates in the presence of a candlelight. We can no longer decipher the shape of the frog and we're eating it as if it was a real chicken. This is indeed memorable.

(16) IRRIGATION SYSTEM

The source of the water is something to ponder about for a first time visitor.

Buscalan's irrigated parcels of land

The tribesmen of Buscalan are the genius type of architects and engineers. Imagine that, they have designed non-conventional ways to keep their rice fields flooded. Clever. The source of the water is something to ponder about for a first time visitor.

(17) THE TATTOO ARTIST

Fang-od

She is the reason why I visited Buscalan and I won't forget that; there will be no regret. Because of her, I was able to learn more about Buscalan and she is the reason why I was able to discover the other 16 things above. After all, she is the reason why I have these memories now. She brought me here. I saw Buscalan. I gained 17 beautiful memories. Thank you Fang-od. /to be continued...

*BUSCALAN SOLO INVASION SUB-SERIES | | | | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7

Tinglayan #TownExploration Series

Map showing the Location of #Tinglayan

Click map to view latest articles covering Kalinga

Here you can enjoy the sun, sea and sand of your dreams...

Have a look below at the best of the resorts, then have a look at cheap Florida holidays from Co-operative Travel that might make this trip of a lifetime that bit more affordable.

MIAMI

The home of the beautiful people, Miami delivers all you would expect, with golden sands, high-end shopping precincts and a breath-taking city skyline. Not just a destination for those looking for a touch of chic however, there are also many family attractions such as the zoo and aquarium, as well as the watersports of Florida Bay to be enjoyed.

KEY WEST

Away from the mainland, Key West lies in the Florida Straights, and is a small island boasting a wealth of beautiful scenery and it’s a great place to de-stress. Here you can enjoy the sun, sea and sand of your dreams on the beaches, or get in touch with nature by visiting either the Butterfly and Nature Conservatory or the Eco-Discovery Centre.

ORLANDO

For families, Orlando is the top choice of resort when visiting Florida. Here you are a stones throw away from Disney, Universal Studios, Seaworld and Wet n’ Wild. If you want to do everything on offer then you will be here a while, so choose carefully the attractions that you and your brood really can’t miss.

Florida will always be one of the top holiday destinations in America, and for good reason! There are many fabulous resorts here for families, couples, friends and all other types of people, and with such great deals no one need miss out! /end

#TownExplorations You Might Like

Map Showing the Location of Florida

Map by Google

This set of frogs jumped to my stomach

Buscalan is a village where every visitor has no right to complain, even Justine Bieber. This is a village for resiliency. Residents here can survive with ease without the presence of continuous supply of water, power (to charge their cellphone battery) and Wi-Fi.

In terms of food, this is not a problem here. They till their fields with crops that supply them food. Sometimes, they get frogs and cook them. Yummm.

Preparing for the food

This piece you are reading now is a documentation of how I spent my first dinner and night in Buscalan. This is not the usual dinner I experience often in many restaurants. This dinner has a heart, a soul. It is very special that it is not easy to move this to the trash section of my memory.

My local host showed me what is our meal for that night. He showed me what's inside that silverware he is handling. I saw frogs.

Frogs, destined to be eaten

Frogs aren't new to me. I eat frogs in my hometown , actually. This is a childhood food. I grew up eating frogs.

As a frog-eater, I know where and when is the right time to capture them based on my childhood experiences. We get them from the pond at our backyard created by a heavy downpour of rain. We get them at night wherein they turn noisy and active because these frogs are nocturnal.

But here in Buscalan, there is a twist and it was not present in my childhood experiences. My thinking is that these frogs dwell in swamps, ponds or any stagnant temporary accumulation of water.

...my ignorance that these edible frogs are only present in the lowlands has ended.

Frogs on the plate

In Buscalan, never have I seen a pond, let alone a swamp. But since I saw flooded rice fields, my theory is that these frogs reside there. At least, my ignorance that these edible frogs are only present in the lowlands has ended. I just killed that kind of ignorance and buried it to the trash section of my memory.

No frogs here. They have jumped to our stomach.

This is my first night in Kalinga, indeed memorable. I spent dinner with my local host's family and some other strangers-turned-friends I met for the first time.

This was the best meal ever. It was not just about the frog but it was about the essence of the dinner. I ate the local way. We sat on the floor with the food therein. We created a circle with the food at the center. Until...

This is a moment where there is no room for complaining.

Blackout

The power supply wasn't able to wait for us to finish our dinner. We spent that moment with a candlelight and a chilly air. This is a moment where there is no room for complaining. This is the life here. It's simple, kind of deprived yet no one seems to complain.

It was that dinner where my heart is pumping joyously; not that I am lucky to have a continuous supply of power in my place but because I am learning to appreciate the little things.

Sometimes, we only get to appreciate the value of a thing when it's gone. We also tend to realize the good deeds of a person when he dies. In Buscalan, I learned the value of little things around that without these little things, there will be no big lessons in life that make us better persons. I always tell this, I travel to learn. I treat it as a form of education that our present curriculum can not teach.

We talked with joy behind the darkness. That dinner unleashed the real us. The candlelight was a silent witness of our fears, happiness and life's perspectives. All is well.

The talk went long, even longer than street conversations under street lights. The darkness cloistered us in one place. It bound us as one soul. It was a long night of exchanging stories of victories and heartaches. Then we called it a night. As the candlelight is about to be defeated by the darkness, I searched for that plate-of-frog. I should have picked another piece only to find out that the plate is already empty.

The next day I woke up and what happened was disappointing yet beautiful to the contrary. /to be continued...

*BUSCALAN SOLO INVASION SUB-SERIES | | | | | 5 | 6 | 7

Tinglayan #TownExploration Series

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[TINGLAYAN] Man, so you want to disappear in the fog...

Sunrise has a lot of meaning in the world. Some culture treat it as sacred. Some call it as their god. I treat it as a key to opportunities, whatever would that be.

Just as I woke up inside a strange home built on a foundation of a resilient culture, I experienced the shiver brought by the low temperature, up high the mountains of the exotic province of KALINGA.

Outside my local host's home is a blurring reality. For a lowlander like me who sees the sunrise and the sunset everyday of my life, what I am witnessing is a vague unusual landscape.

[TINGLAYAN] This is usual for them, it's a sci-fi movie scene for me

Outside my local host's home is a blurring reality.

[TINGLAYAN] It's the fog, not the roof

My first attempt to embrace the sunrise in Kalinga was a clear failure. I would love seeing the rice terraces with the dramatic effect of the sunrise, nay, the imposing cultural landscape struck by the soft rays of the early sun.

[TINGLAYAN] Mount Canaan kissing the fog

...I woke up inside a strange home built on a foundation of a resilient culture...

[TINGLAYAN] Rooftop legend - Green: school / Other colors: local houses

I still kept the hope of witnessing the sunrise but the thick fog veiled the sun and hindered it's rays.

Children of the village started the day playing - and it shows that this thing is normal for them. For me, this is an unusual scenario

It made me love the mountains more. As they say, behind the clouds, the sun is still shining. Like what happened today, the nature showed me the other side of the destination; beautiful side of the destination.

[TINGLAYAN] Looks likewinter, although this day was summer

Children of the village started the day playing.

[TINGLAYAN] Buscalan kids playing on an early morning

[TINGLAYAN] Vegetation, at least

The nature showed me the other side of the destination...

[TINGLAYAN] Buscalan is heaven, this stairway is a connection to earth

[TINGLAYAN] Would love to play hide and seek - in the fog

So the sun didn't shine that morning. However, I was able to understand the other side of the story. I realized, that foggy, gloomy morning was magic. And you know what, I got lost in the fog. It felt good.

It was my first time to wake up on a mountaintop covered by fog and that first time experience was one of the highlights of my stay in Buscalan. I have a shallow happiness right? I tell it again, I am a person who values first time experiences. /to be continued...

*BUSCALAN SOLO INVASION SUB-SERIES | | | | | | 6 | 7

Tinglayan #TownExploration Series

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"...though media are very entertaining and informative, our role is to become critical thinkers."

When I heard about the news of a mysterious flesh-eating skin disease having an outbreak in Villasis and Sta Barbara towns in Pangasinan, I was not surprised. I personally think that news like this may appear anytime. Being linked to a prophecy, some (not all) of the Filipinos went wild.

When I heard about the news of a mysterious flesh-eating disease having an outbreak in Villasis and Sta Barbara towns in Pangasinan, I was not surprised.

[VILLASIS] A town said to be one of the locations of the disease

This country, being run by [some] people who never experienced to become poor (and probably never tried nor attempted traveling to the poor communities of the remote areas), the root of poverty would be very hard to determine (for them, the rich). In such case, finding the solution to poverty would be very hard. This scenario might lead to poor delivery of social services, education and health care. Now I want to relate the latter to this gone-viral news.

THE NEWS

Bandila, a late-night news program in ABS-CBN reported that a skin disease they call as mysterious is spreading in Pangasinan. The news made the netizens hysterical. Fear and worry flooded my Facebook and Twitter timeline for that news.

A prophet who has predicted a strong typhoon (Yolanda) in Samar and Leyte to happen is linked to this news. The latter also mentioned this flesh-eating disease to happen in Pangasinan. This prediction became a cause for hysteria.

OF FEAR, HYPOCRISY AND BEING RELIGIOUS

I laughed the idea of some people that they should start praying to God now, or magbagong buhay (have a new better life) upon learning this news. Why??? Why people only learn to pray and have a new life when there are news like this? Some people seek God because of fear. Fear is the motivation to their 'going back' to God and not because they really love God. A bunch of hyps!

Hypocrite people pop out during fearful conditions like this. They become religious. They talk about God. They want to go back to God. But when they all have the happiness and wealth in the world, they forget God. They only remember the Lord when they are covered by fear. So what's the use of returning to God? Coping mechanism for fear? For the foregoing, I am only referring to coward hypocrite people. I know there are people there who seek God for better or for worse, sincerely.

The humble idea I just want to say is, we must love God because we really love Him - in every moment of our life, and not because we need Him or we feel fear and we want Divine security.

OF POLITICS AND GOVERNMENT

When the news came out, the victims of this skin disease dragged the attention of the public. Public officials of Pangasinan visited the victim to offer help. This scenario does not only happen in Pangasinan - it happens in the Philippines in general.

Thanks to the news. Whether it's malicious, factual, fictitious, excellent, irresponsible or whatever you want to call it, I still consider it as an eye-opener. It has shown [the news] to the public how poor is the delivery of health services to poor Filipinos who have serious illness like this. The poor are suffering while few people are enjoying the wealth of the Land that is supposed to be allocated for public services. I should have not been emphasizing the poor condition of the Filipinos because there are also wealthy Filipinos. But since we always hear news of corruption of public officials everyday, it is deemed proper to invoke poverty as the result of corruption.

Ok, let's say the news is tantamount to irresponsible journalism. But what if this news did not come out? Shall these poor people get the attention of our public officials that quick? Or will just die in suffering and poverty? In that case, such mistake somehow opened the eyes of many Filipinos about the alarming condition of poor Pinoys.

OF IGNORANCE

So people are blaming the media. Some people have never grown up. Of course the mainstream media is a 'commercial media.' In the first place, these mainstream media are there for profit. This is business. Sometimes they control you. They show you unhealthy food and branded drugs so that you will buy them -- and most of the time you believe them.

What I am telling is, though media are very entertaining and informative, our role is to become critical thinkers. As long as there is profit, the mass media will be there and it will depend on you if you're going to watch them or not. If you want to watch them, be wise, think critical. Don't put the drama as if it happened in your life just because you were carried away by the emotion and excellent cinematography. Below is a comment from a facebook netizen.

[SCREENSHOT] A facebook netizen's opinion.

So what now? The video has shown exactly a picture of a common Filipino. They slowly die in pain, in disease, in poverty and these two featured victims represent the many more Filipinos dying of poverty and poor health care while some politicians enjoy the luxury of stolen wealth from the public fund. HEY PUBLIC OFFICIAL? HAVE YOU EVER SEEN HOW PITIFUL THESE PEOPLE ARE? #NGANGA!!! Sige nakawin pa ang health funds.

And if ever this is a true mysterious flesh-eating disease and you decided to release fund to control it, it's too late!!! You only act now? Now that you're afraid that this disease will soon penetrate your exclusive village? /end

Disclaimer: These are just my opinions. You can rebut it. At the end of the day, we can not please everyone because the principle of Pedro might be different with the principle of Juan. My personality in writing this is of being a travel blogger. Pangasinan is a very beautiful province close to my heart. Having seen the poor communities of the remote villages, I decided to touch this Pangasinan news as an illustration to the real situation of the poor Filipinos as a whole.

PANGASINAN #TownExploration Series

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[VIGAN] My cousins, I used to be like them, a child: I was born in Vigan

One of my fave subjects is HEKASI. My teacher has always been telling us about the hagdan-hagdang palayan (rice terraces). Although I have always dreamed of seeing such place, it remained as wish. As a child, I felt like I was deprived to see such place highlighted in our lesson that day.

RICE TERRACES AND MY CHILDHOOD

I am a child who grew up in a beautiful country under series of defective political leaderships. Should the government has done sincere and effective measures to uplift the life of every Filipino child through education, I should have read a book in full color to appreciate the beauty of my land.

I should have read a book in full color to appreciate the beauty of my land.

[VIGAN] My neighbor gave this book to me. It ignited my fire to wander (1998).

Sadly, my childhood has witnessed that the economy is not really in good shape. Because if it was well, my parents should have bought me an Encyclopedia Britannica I have always requested them to buy. My thirst for knowledge was severe. But I breathed the air of reality instead. If the Philippines is a rich country, my parents should have landed to lucrative jobs and I should have requested them to bring me to those rice terraces.

But as a child, I have already known that the latter request is not emanating from innocence. I was exposed to the reality of life. You know, the burning desire to travel was there but I was aware that visiting such lovely place is close to impossibility those times.

As I grew up, I learned to suppress the desire because the present circumstances are telling me that I need to do it. It is part of growing, and of childhood. That way, I learned to swallow gradually the feeling of being deprived to travel due to the economic status of my family. My parents had priorities. Leisure travel was never an option in the list of priorities. Our basic needs are always the priority.

OF GROWING UP

My love of seeing rice terraces was rekindled last 2012 when I saw rice terraces for the first time in the province of . Although it was not exactly the rice terraces mentioned on that textbook, I realized that the magic of my early love life is coming back. All I know then was, rice terraces are only found in IFUGAO - that is because my HEKASI books are not telling there are many rice terraces in the .

...the burning desire to travel was there but I was aware that visiting such lovely place is close to impossibility those times.

[VIGAN] My manyayagit neighbor picked this book from a trash but I still read it.

You know, my childhood love affair revolves around newspaper and magazine clippings of beautiful places. I remember, the largest clipping I ever cut from a broadsheet was a photo of Catanduanes. The author of the article tagged the destination as the 'Land of the Howling Wind.' I kept those clippings and I made myself contended just seeing those images without personally seeing the place.

Aside from that, I sleep with an Atlas I borrowed from the school library (although that shouldn't be taken home). I put the book below my pillow before I sleep. When I was in Grade 3, the first world map I ever had was sold in our school for 100 pesos. That map was actually attached in a notebook. That time, I (almost) memorized all the countries in the Asia with their capitals and I had basic geography knowledge for the Western hemisphere based on those books and map I have studied.

I sleep with an Atlas I borrowed from the school library

[VIGAN] Atlas I borrowed from school, uh, I forgot to return

I remember I also had my first Philippine map. It was actually a calendar from my father's office. I waited for that year to be finished so that I can get that map. My effort wasn't in vain. I got that map. From there, I memorized all the provinces in the Philippines with their capitals. That was when I am about to turn 10 years old.

I also learned that Cebu has 6 cities (that time) and Negros island has more cities than any other island in the Philippines (that was 1998) and the only cities I saw in Northern Luzon were Laoag, Baguio and Dagupan. But when my cousin saw that map, she cut it into pieces. I cried so hard. My cousin didn't know the value of that map to me. She used it for play. I considered it as my best friend. That was an extremely hurtful day losing a best friend. I knew I was just a child. I don't have my own income. So losing such map is grievous. I don't know how can I provide another one. And to think, I study that map everyday for several months.

Until I passed the stage of childhood and I had the chance to travel to a remote place. The first array of rice terraces I saw was a surprise. I wasn't aware that such wonder is existing in that remote town called Tubo.

[TUBO] Kawayan Rice Terraces, the first I have ever seen

That feeling when you think what you are seeing is fiction was insane. It was like seeing Superman in person. You know that. As a child, seeing rice terraces was more of a fantasy than reality (due to the circumstances I mentioned above). Now that I have the chance to see these places, I am now capturing them in full color. It is the simple way I can do to show to the children now and of tomorrow the beauty of the Land of their birth.

As a grown-up kid, that reminded me of my childhood dreams. From that day, I knew I am going back to my first love and I don't want to let that magic go away again. The suppressed desire is resurrected from the permafrost. I will travel. I will aim high. I will hit the mark.I will inspire my future children.I will let them know that passion should not be sacrificed. /end

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Pinsal Falls. Grandiose.

WATERFALLS

ILOCOS REGION

Natural pool above the falls

Side view

You can swim above the falls

Upper cascades

Her sister

Twin sisters

Notice the minute people

View from the parking area

Motorbikes parked, including mine.

Nuestra Señora de Asuncion Church of Sta. Maria, Ilocos Sur

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Start of Planting Season

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A portion of Bekigan Rice Terraces

#BONTOC

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Bekigan Rice Terraces marker

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CORDILLERA

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